DIOR AFTER RAF
Published Thursday, February 4, 2016
After the unexpected exit of Dior designer Raf Simons, the fashion world mourned and wondered who would be the next visionary leader of the French fashion house.
During Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week, Dior faced the world with its Spring 2016 Haute Couture collection entirely imagined and brought to life by Dior’s studio team. The team who has worked with Raf Simons for a number of collections continued his minimalist vision and mission to appeal to a younger and modern generation.
The team gave a new meaning to couture – “Couture’s new realism” was all about infusing couture for the women on the go. This signaled a lack of grandeur and drama on an haute couture runway and focused on presenting couture as wearable pieces.
The most prominent element of the collection is the modern interpretation of the classic ‘Bar’ jacket. It was presented with an exaggerated bell sleeves, embellished with hand-embroidered lilies of the valley and even transformed in an oversized and coat versions. There was also a clear focus on off-shoulder shapes, deep v-cuts and falling sleeves, accentuating the women’s décolleté.
Although there were influences of Simon’s artistry with varying silhouettes, lightness in movement, and textural embroidery, the collection failed to communicate a strong message and a cohesive approach. It lacked excitement and dare I say, pursuit to perfection, which was applauded during Raf Simon’s time at the house.
The future of Dior is unclear, but one thing is for certain, Raf Simons is missed. We can only hope that the future designer of Dior can revitalize the fashion world and bring us that Dior magic again.
If you want to know more about the legacy Raf Simons built at Dior, I recommend you to watch Dior and I documentary.